B50 rubber bits

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B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Mon Jul 23, 2012 2:45 pm

Any one else have trouble with the points wiring grommet splitting?
Pointless fitting yet another of these cheap & nasty rubber things
B50-4304.jpg
and haven't found anything better
so I tried making one
B50-PointsWireGrommet01.jpg
B50-PointsWireGrommet01.jpg (7.56 KiB) Viewed 1191 times

or 2
B50-PointsWireGrommet02.jpg
B50-PointsWireGrommet02.jpg (9.61 KiB) Viewed 1191 times

from polyurethane, which is not cheap & nasty.
But common sense got the better of tradition - by pointing it in the general direction thus relieving the split-causing stress.
And getting the wire further away from the dipstick.

I don't know if they work yet, my bike is off the road being a dummy for more rubber bits.

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Mon Jul 23, 2012 3:11 pm

Next up, B50 air box to carby hose which I thought I'd endow with a more nubile shape
B50-4319.jpg
from the left, each rotated counter-clockwise by 90 deg.

Can be fitted or removed by fingers alone without removing air-box or carb and does not necessarily need hose-clamping if fitted on the parallel carby mouth ring.
Or whatever it's name is.
Probably also fit B25 but that needs testing.

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby minetymenace » Mon Jul 23, 2012 3:18 pm

I'm up for a couple of the carb tubes thingies...how much Roadie?

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby malcward » Mon Jul 23, 2012 7:41 pm

minetymenace wrote:I'm up for a couple of the carb tubes thingies...how much Roadie?


Me too :thumb

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby b50root » Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:16 pm

Electrical box rubbers?

Rickard

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby steve m » Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:14 am

minetymenace wrote:I'm up for a couple of the carb tubes thingies...how much Roadie?


me to :!: :grin:
just one (or 2) questions does it hold it's shape when the engine is running and the tube is warm/hot.

and....does it come in green :ban :ban :ban

steve

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Tue Jul 24, 2012 12:18 pm

How about $8.00 aussie per hose ?
Special introductory forum member's price for something largely untested in action and with a not exactly glossy smooth finish.
Plus any quantity postage:
AU - $7.50, PM for paypal email address or my DD details.
UK & EU airmail - $13.50, US & CA airmail - $11.50, PM for paypal email address.
Or I don't mind swapping stuff. For instance I need to make or acquire a sacrificial pattern for the electrics box rubbers, which is top of the list Rickard.

Can do various colours but I'd have to get green. What a curious choice Steve. :ban Sustainable? British Racing? fluoro? :tongue
The black is an opaque pigment which I use sparingly, it makes the urethane a bit harder. Translucent colour dyes seem to make it a bit softer.
These things are not vacuum de-aerated (no real need) but are properly cured, attaining all attributes after 16 hours at 71 C. and will easily handle much higher temperatures. Fuel & oil resistant and far superior to rubber in mechanical applications.
And it's not horrid stuff to work with either. For hoses I've settled on a Shore hardness of 60 +/- 5 and first feedback says a fair bit softer one doesn't deform with engine running.
So far so good <216

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby Barry Creary » Wed Jul 25, 2012 1:56 am

Hi Roadi
Can you tell me the I.D. I've got a 32mm mikuni with intake O.D. of 58mm or about 2 1/4". The frame guset has been cut get the carbie in but I'm using a arfter market filter but it's hard to get it to clear things
Thanks Barry <222

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Wed Jul 25, 2012 5:28 am

I.D. 46mm. (a screw-on carby ring is about 47mm O.D.)

60 hardness does not easily stretch enough for your Mikuni, however..
I tried a 42 hardness which happily stretched onto a fork slider :ban which is about 57mm.
B50-InductHose57mm01.jpg
B50-InductHose57mm02.jpg
I put the bulge side on first then stuck a few fingers inside and it practically jumped on.

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby Barry Creary » Wed Jul 25, 2012 6:55 am

Hi Roadi
Thanks for that, looks like it will go, do you have it in blue for beat. <033

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Wed Jul 25, 2012 7:17 am

Barry Creary wrote:do you have it in blue for beat.

that would look good :thumb

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby steve m » Wed Jul 25, 2012 8:08 am

sounds good Roady.
:oops: bit obscure with the green comment. seeing the row there with all different shades reminded me of "the inventors"tv show from the 70's, do you remember? there was a woman on the panel (quite rare for the times) and when it came to her turn she would always say "does it come in a blue( or pink or green or whatever), so that was all, there. black would be the colour of choice, thank you very much. my original tube can just stretch over one of those Amal short screw on stacks that you get with a new carb. but it does show some age related creases so i only tried it once and never rode with it like that as the tubes are getting hard to find. do you think the 42 job would be the go for fitment or would that become loose? it's the flaired edge that might be to much for it if it's a tight fit.
your thoughts?

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Wed Jul 25, 2012 12:04 pm

ha ha, I thought there was something fishy about green - Diana Fisher. Also "is it safe?"

So is yours otherwise connected straight on to the carby screw thread?
I just about wore out my thread using a hard old tube and the parallel stacks are not all that common so I paid a high price for one.

The 42 tube would easily handle a sharp edge up to 60mm diam I'd say, probably more. It's a lot tougher than it looks, amazing tear strength, 42 can stretch in linear form 660% before rupture.
Having a bit of a feel for it now I can't imagine it ever coming loose. UV light exposure can in time effect it's surface properties and un-coloured stuff turns yellow then brown (less so after mixing) like latex but takes much longer to do so and even then apparently deep material attributes remain unaffected.
An Amal Premier should be here in a few days so I'll be able to check the fit on that flared edge directly.

Here's a good coincidence, the B50 tube weighs 50g. <201

Steve do you still have the spare elec box mounting rubber you mentioned ?? <214

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:35 pm

The Amal bell mouth is about 54mm O.D. and the 60 tube slips on to it quite easily by hand, by virtue of the bulge portion of the tube acting like a tyre bead-well.

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby malcward » Tue Aug 14, 2012 1:19 am

Recieved my carb connector tube today,
went straight out and fitted it to the B50,slipped on very easily.
Good job Roadplough :thumb :thumb :thumb

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Wed Aug 15, 2012 12:17 am

Thanks Malc, took a lot longer to get there from here than things usually take to get here from there.

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby malcward » Sat Jan 26, 2013 10:02 pm

Hi Roadie

Did you get round to doing any electrics box rubbers and battery carrier rubbers ?.

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby Canberra » Sun Jan 27, 2013 12:04 pm

Malc,

Yes, he has made electric box "rubbers", in polyurethane, work well and last longer than a rubber version. Roady sent me a couple of hardnesses but I went with the harder one as it appears the softer version gave a bit too much movement. Dimensionally it appears good.

Not sure about the battery carrier rubbers. The rubber version does not last a long time. You almost need a hard flange and soft mount which could be harder to make but not impossible in poly.

John

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby roadplough » Thu Jan 31, 2013 6:49 am

Thanks for posting that info John, I've just been flood bound without electricity or communication for 5 days but all relatively good now.

A bit more info.. Canberra knows about shore hardness ratings and I agree that the softies are probably too soft for a full electrics box however pending more experimentation, the 3 mounting points could each use a different hardness to further account for the standard weight distribution, or if the ignition coil for instance, is relocated thereby reducing the box's weight. Pedantic perhaps.
But I've a few more elementary problems to deal with.
The soft mounts are shore-A 25, the next hardest are shore-A 42, then comes shore-A 50, etc. What's needed for elec box rubbers is about shore-A 35 which I have not found to be available.
To compound this problem, the A-42 I bought was past it's use-by date when I bought it and has been progressively turning out a tad harder with every pour so it's now harder than A 50 and what remains of part B of the mix has become unusable. But that's been a valuable insight into how polyurethane works. Each hardness comprises different chemicals, it ain't all the same stuff. A-25 does not necessarily produce harder components as the raw material ages but A-42 does.

So I've been working on ways around the hardness requirement problem.
Transparent dye (in black - believe it or not) seems to make A-42 softer but I can't really verify that without expending big$s on a fresh batch of A-42.
Opposed to dye, opaque pigment seems to make A-25 harder, as also does the introduction of aluminium powder so the solution is probably there but I can't test that any further until the weather cools. Can't pour above 30C or in high humidity and I've got both right now.

Next tale of woe, Crankbuster's elec box mount modeled at the correct size which I bought from Shapeways arrived significantly smaller, perhaps due to the method of obtaining the surface texture of it. Despite that I made a set of moulds and the resultant grommets work if packed with washers to squash enough to not fall through their holes. The very problem that needed fixing in the beginning.
Not happy offering these grommets to discerning B50ers I eventually made a new set of moulds. The new grommets are both fat enough and tall enough to use without packing washers. They are what Canberra got, poured before the summer set-in. However now back to the problems of ambient temperature and hardness as detailed above.

Malc, I do have a set of grey coloured "under-sized" grommets if you want to settle for those? Otherwise give me a few weeks for the better ones. I also have one only A-25 hardness battery mat which is very soft. I stuffed up the battery tray mould by trying to pour on a hot day, the mould silicone went off too quickly forcing a patch-up job which is a hassle to set up for a pour. So no more of those til I make a new mould in a month or 2.

Aluminium impregnated polyurethane.. looks promising with it's high heat tolerance and dissipation, it's the colour of alloy but quickly discolours to khaki in direct sunlight which is a pity. In fact the only colour unaffected by light is black. So aluminium with black pigment is obviously the next thing to try.

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby steve m » Thu Jan 31, 2013 7:53 am

gooday Roady,
hope you're drying out up there. these particular parts you are replicating are very important. it will be nice to have more durable rubber bits for our bikes.
stick at it. :thumb

Malc,
have you seen this post, it seems relevant.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2258&hilit=battery+rubbers

steve

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby Barry Creary » Thu Jan 31, 2013 10:11 am

Hi Roadi
Hope your ok with floods and power I know it's very trying, good luck :thumb

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby Canberra » Thu Jan 31, 2013 1:09 pm

Southern guys are looking for water to put out fires and northern guys are looking for ways to get rid of water. We had our annual Canberra club rally this weekend with 150 various bikes from 1918 to present and weather was good for riding. Only problem was being hit by a storm cell in late afternoon and drains got swamped and inch of water into the garage at home. This country is real extremes.

Hope the weather starts settling down as we are booked for a Tassie trip in March by bike. Not the round Tassie tour rally just so Lynn can see the place I used to have to go to work sometimes in the past.

My electric box only has ignition switch and a solid state regulator in it so weight is reasonably balanced but I hear what you mean about different shore hardness. Normally the box is back heavy but it may not matter as the rear of the box has two rubbers versus the front with one. Dimensionally you're there so keep up the good work Roadie - you'll get there in the end and then hopefully swamped by orders instead of torrents of water.

John

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Re: B50 rubber bits

Postby malcward » Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:02 pm

Hi Roady

Theres no rush ,they are for my 71ss which is a long term project.
Sounds like you have more important things to do, with the weather and all.[ minus 27C and snowing here].

Thanks for the link Steve, useful advice.

Cheers
Malc


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