It sparks

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beat
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Re: It sparks

Post by beat »

on the way....
on the way....
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Re: It sparks

Post by minetymenace »

A fine selection of screws beat, keeping up the BSA tradition of using what you have....I must have a butchers at the circuit sometime, rather busy building the shed at the moment though....
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Re: It sparks

Post by beat »

near on finished......
near on finished......
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Re: It sparks

Post by FranktheWelder »

It looks very beautiful compact and durable. Plastic cover with 0-ring?
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Re: It sparks

Post by beat »

FranktheWelder wrote: Sat Jan 18, 2020 12:37 am It looks very beautiful compact and durable. Plastic cover with 0-ring?
yes and no :grin:
DSCN1627.jpeg
covering the electronic parts with Plastidip.
this is sealing agains moister and protects for vibrations.

Plastic cover but no O ring.
DSCN1631.jpeg
strong but lightweight bracket
DSCN1629.jpeg
finished... <216
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Re: It sparks

Post by skippy »

How many francs will it sell for? <201
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Re: It sparks

Post by beat »

skippy wrote: Tue Jan 28, 2020 10:34 pm How many francs will it sell for?
it is not for sale, it is going in the spare part box at the gold star project.
at this Goldie, we will run a other version of it in priority, a TIS 5G .
this 5G includes a cut of device by low voltage and a cut of device by no trigger signal longer than 10 seconds.

BTW, the costs for the electronic parts in the G6 are bylow 20 SFr plus the box...

beat <213
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Re: It sparks

Post by beat »

Hallo friends,

as it is so quiet in the forum, - I will ask some stupid Questions .
Questions are related to this plan here as I will build a new Transistor Ignition.
Again I will use a 18 Volt Accu from the Makita Drilling Machine.
this Accu's uses to have a Voltage of 20.5 V in freshly charged condition, - and probably down to 10 V when totally down .

so, to stabilize this Voltage, I will use two voltage regulators.
one to serve the coil with 12 Volts, - and the second to serv the trigger ( points ) and the power transistors plant.

now, by studying the Datasheet of the LD 1084 V, again they recomend to put two capacitors in line, -- the same at the uA78S09 .

my question: - do I realy need to put dos caps in there as the use of this regulators is a bit a raw thing : 3 000 sparks a minute, makes 50 a second.
and by switched on ignition, there will be a continouse flow of minimum 20 m Amps + a small load resistor, - so probably 30 mA continues.

this is the plan:
TIS 7.0 1.pdf
(292.67 KiB) Downloaded 13 times
any Ideas out there ??
Minety :?: :?:


beat <212

BTW, the last ignition got brocken down by a ignition coil, making a short inside and distroyed the power transistor.
the coil was a new PVL brand thing. :cry:
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Re: It sparks

Post by minetymenace »

Well, yes. The caps either side of regulators serve two functions, to smooth out the supply (like a reservoir) so that peaks of current can be supplied where necessary (you have a pure inductive load), and to damp noise....you may find that (at certain revs) you get some oscillations between the coil and the regulator....I'd put them in, and have a look on the scope when you have built it to see hat everything is OK.

What does R3 do? is it a heater?
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Re: It sparks

Post by Jack Gifford »

Any reason for the negative side of the coil primary going to a separate ground? How is that ground related to the zero-volt node of the circuit?
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Re: It sparks

Post by beat »

hi Jack
Jack Gifford wrote: Mon Nov 14, 2022 5:39 am Any reason for the negative side of the coil primary going to a separate ground?
yes, it is.
when I watch the voltage with the scope on this negative side of the coil, there coming rough spikes up in the level of 150 to 200 volts.
( recoplings from the secondary windings in to the primary windings of the coil )

so, on my road use B50, running a similar ignition, when I switch of the ignition with one hand on the key for the switch and the other holding the pure steel of the handlebar , my hand and my body getting a feelable shock.
( switching off is making a last spark )
since I connect this wire directly to the engine / frame, and not in to neg loom, this symptom is go on.
I guess my main switch isn't from the best quality about isolating.... :oops: :oops: :oops:

so I fallow this route, evan as the fraim/ engine is proper connected to the battery minus polarity.


minetymenace wrote: Sun Nov 13, 2022 8:47 pm .I'd put them in, and have a look on the scope when you have built it to see hat everything is OK.
thanks minety, - so I will order this caps as advised .
minetymenace wrote: Sun Nov 13, 2022 8:47 pm What does R3 do? is it a heater?
no, no handlebar heater :lol:

it should do, same as the R 2, keeping the voltage regulator continuously a live, --I do not trust the LED's about lifetime and I want a continouse flow of some 30 mA on each regulator as long as the LED is working. without LED, it will remain at least around 10 mA.

beat <201 <201 <017 <017
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